Via Santa Radegonda, 16
Walking around the Duomo area in the very centre of Milan can result in eating in some of the most overpriced and expensive restaurants. We happened to be on the lookout for a place to eat based purely on memory of the side streets beside the Duomo where there are a couple of pizzeria’s smart in appearance and sensible on price.
Instead we came across a place rated incredibly highly by tourists across social media called Luini, a literal hole in the wall bakery serving panzerotti – filled dough parcels either fried or baked with a variety of fillings. I had to double-take that the place was indeed Luini as there wasn’t a line outside whereas normally people have to queue up for the famous panzerotti.
We guessed that due to it being early evening we had caught Luini at a good time just after the lunchtime rush and just before the evening got properly going. Outside is a menu board with all the various types of panzerotti that you can buy and inside the bakery is a large display of the fried dough parcels each labelled according to flavour – also in English. We decided to go for the ham and mozzarella fried panzerotti at €2.70 (£2.38) purchasing one each.
As we ordered the staff seemed unimpressed by photographs and videos being taken of their products and ordered us not to take any photos. Fair enough I guess but we’re here to promote their business, enjoy their food and encourage people to eat at their amazing bakery which was really the only sour note of our visit to Luini.
Many people sat down on the surrounding kerbs given that the streets were quiet at this time of the day. We headed for a quiet side street to do the same while our panzerotti cooled down enough for a picture and to bite into. The best way I can describe the first taste of panzerotti is like a savoury fried doughnut complete with ham and mozzarella…it was just superb. The flavours were very good but there’s something about freshly fried food that’s so addictive – maybe because you just know that it’s bad for you.
I had been so busy ordering the savoury version of the panzerotti that it wasn’t until I looked back over the photo’s that I realised Luini also do sweet panzerotti. It makes sense really as if you’re making savoury doughnut-type snacks then it’d be rude not to do the sweet version. On sale during our visit were prune and chocolate panzerotti which looked tempting.
If you end up hungry after climbing the beautiful Duomo in Milan why not reward yourself with a trip to Luini. Easy and delicious food that doesn’t break the bank in an area of town that really should. Of all the food that we have eaten in Milan these fried treats are right up there amongst the very best.
Opening times: Monday- Saturday 1000-2000 (1500 on Monday)
Nearest Metro: Duomo